Preparation
- Where possible remove all furniture from the area or room. The HT8-1.2 Floor Sander features an efficient dust pickup, however, some dust will escape.
- Remove all tacks, staples and other unwanted fixings from the floor. Failure to do so will result in damage to the abrasive paper and sanding drum.
- Punch all nails below the surface of the floor using a suitable nail punch and hammer. Any screws used to fix boards should be counter sunk below the surface. During sanding any nails or screws that become exposed must be punched or counter sunk further.
- Firmly fix all loose boards or blocks.
- Remove heavy wax, grease and dirt deposits by hand.
- Sweep and vacuum the floor thoroughly to remove dirt and discarded fixings.
- Ensure good ventilation by opening windows.
Operation
- Move the floor sander to the location of your work.
- Connect the power cable to a suitable power supply ideally located behind or to one side of the machine and work area.
- Wear a dust mask and ear protection.
- Hold both handles with the main cable held in a small loop in the left hand and then passed over the left shoulder.
- Apply light downwards pressure on the handles to tip the floor sander back to raise the sanding drum off the floor. Switch on by pushing the ON/OFF switch to the ‘I’ position.
- Now move the floor sander slowly forward and at the same time release the pressure on the handles to gently lower it so that the sanding drum comes into contact with the floor.
- Guide the floor sander in a straight line at a slow walking pace. Do not force or hold the floor sander back. Allow the machine to do the work and always move at an even pace.
- At the end of the pass while still moving forward tilt the floor sander back so that the sanding drum comes clear of the floor. Now moving backwards lower the floor sander again and pull it backwards over the area just sanded moving at a steadily even pace. Take care to ensure that the power cable is kept clear of the sanding drum at all times. At the end of the sanding pass and while still moving backwards tilt the floor sander back so once again the sanding drum comes clear of the floor. Move the machine over so that it overlaps the area just sanded by 3″ (75mm) and start to sand the next pass repeating the above technique.
- Always ensure that the floor sander is moving when in operation and the sanding drum is in contact with the floor.
- Never lift the back of the machine when sanding.
- Never apply pressure to try to increase the rate of sanding. Damage to the floor and machine will occur.
- Never bounce or drop the floor sander on to the floor. Always lower the machine gently.
- Never dwell in one place, move steadily at all times.
- Never allow the power cable to come into contact with the sanding drum.
- When the dust in the dust bag reaches the ‘MAX’ line stop sanding. Disconnect the power cable from the power supply and remove the paper dust bag. Turn the top of the paper dust bag over to stop the escape of dust and dispose of into a suitable container. Never reuse the paper dust bag or empty it or dispose of it into a fire. If a cloth bag is used empty into a suitable container being careful to contain the dust. Do not dispose of the contents into a fire.
- Fit a new paper dust bag or refit the cloth bag. Reconnect the floor sander to the power supply and continue sanding.
- When taking a break from work disconnect the power cable from the supply, remove and dispose of the paper dust bag, or empty the cloth bag as detailed in 8. above. Never leave the floor sander unattended with the dust bag in place containing dust.
- On completion disconnect the power cable from the supply. Remove and dispose of the paper dust bag, or empty the cloth bag as detailed in 8. above. Stow the cable on the handle assembly and if required dismantle for transportation. Carry out maintenance as recommended in Maintenance and Servicing.
DANGER – never leave the floor sander unattended with dust in the dust bag. Always remove the dust bag and dispose of into a suitable container.
Floor Sanding Technique
HT8-1.2 Floor Sander (Drum) – a powerful floor sander designed for the rapid leveling and sanding of all types of wood flooring excluding thin laminated or veneered floors. Load the sander with abrasive making sure that it is skin tight around the drum. Loose sheets will tear. Place the sander on the right hand wall (unless you are making an angled cut on uneven floors) with about two thirds of the floor in front of you. Start the sander with the drum off the floor then walk forward at an even pace and ease the drum on to the floor. As you near the end of the pass, gradually raise the drum off the floor. Practice this technique before turning on the sander.
Cover the same path you made on the forward cut by pulling the machine backwards and easing the drum to the floor as you begin the backward pass until you reach the original starting point, then ease the drum off the floor. When two thirds of the floor is sanded, turn the floor sander around and sand the remaining third in the same way. Overlap the one third area by 0.6 to 0.9 meters (2 to 3 feet ) with the two thirds area to blend the two areas together.
WARNING – never bounce the sanding drum or dwell in one place as this will sand dips and hollows in the floor.
HT7-2 Disc Floor Sander (Edger) – a powerful disc floor sander designed for sanding along the edges of a floor without damaging the baseboards or moldings. Also suitable for smaller areas where the HT8-1.2 Floor Sander will not reach like stair treads and closets. Load the abrasive disc making sure the retaining bolt is tight. Start the edger with the disc off the floor then lower the disc to the floor as you move the sander. Work progressively moving the sander in a sweeping motion from side to side.
Hand Sanding – to sand difficult to reach areas scrape and sand the floor by hand. Use a scraper to remove old finishes, always scraping in the direction of the grain, and then sand by hand using the same grit abrasive as you finished with when machine sanding.
Floor Types
Old floors in good condition – when the floor is in good condition – no uneven edges, cupping or crowning of planks and strips – and you want to resurface the floor, sanding back to new wood, start sanding in the direction of the planks or strips – with the wood grain. Start with a medium grit abrasive. Complete the first cut with the HT8-1.2 Floor Sander then sand up to the baseboards and door thresholds with the HT7-2 Disc Floor Sander, using a medium grit abrasive, blending the edges in with the main floor area. Sweep the floor. Using a medium/fine grit abrasive, sand the main floor area with the drum sander and then complete the floor with the edger using a fine grit abrasive. Sweep the floor. Finish sanding the main floor area with the drum floor sander using a fine grit abrasive. If the floor is in particularly good condition (level with no deep scratches or blemishes) you may re-surface the floor using the HTF-2 Floor Sander, however, as the sanding action of this machine is less aggressive than the HT81.2 Floor Sander the job will take more time.
Uneven floors – when the floor is uneven sand diagonally at 45 across the room in both directions using the HT8-1.2 Floor Sander with a coarse grit abrasive. Only make one cut on both diagonals, this will achieve a basic level. Now complete the floor as for a level strip or plank floor. Use the same grit abrasive as was used on the 45 cut for the first cut parallel to the planks or strips.
Floors with an existing finish – when re-finishing a floor remove as little of the existing surface as possible. If the old finish is worn and the floor is generally in good condition use the HTF-2 Floor Sander with Hiretech abrasive pads and strips which have been especially designed for re-finishing floors. These will maintain the integrity of any stain used to colour the wood and prepare the surface for a new coat of finish. If the floor is badly marked and scratched and has to be sanded back to new wood use the HT8-1.2 Floor Sander and HT7-2 Disc Floor Sander. Always try a medium grit paper first, particularly on a diagonal cut. If 90% of the old finish is removed and the floor is generally leveled, you do not need to use a coarse grit abrasive.
Parquet and Blockfloors
The grain of the wood will run in a number of directions so sand the floor in the direction of the main source of natural light in the room. If there is no source of natural light sand in the direction of the longest side of the room or, if the room is square, in the direction the furniture is laid out and how people normally use and view the room. This technique will help mask any imperfections in the floor. Complete the sanding operation as detailed for plank or strip floors.
Floor Sander Abrasive Guide
Grit P24 Open Coat
(Very Coarse non-clogging)
For removing surface coatings from old floors such as varnish, stains and wax polishes. For the rapid sanding and removal of scratches and marks. Sanding level the joints of sub-flooring like particle board and masonite.
Grit P24
(Very Coarse)
For the rapid sanding and removal of scratches and marks. Sanding level the joints of sub-flooring like particle board and masonite.
Grit P36 to P50
(Coarse/Medium)
For removing surface coatings from old floors such as varnish, stains and wax polishes. For the rapid sanding and removal of scratches and light marks.
Sanding level the joints of sub-flooring like particle board and masonite.
Grit P60 to P80
(Medium)
For the rapid sanding and removal of scratches and light marks. Sanding level the joints of sub-flooring like particle board and masonite.
Grit P100 to P120
(Medium/Fine)
Intermediate sanding of all types of wood floor. For final sanding of all types of wood floor.
Do not over-sand. Use only as heavy grade abrasive as it takes to do the job. Progress from first grade used through following grades to remove all visible sanding marks. Do not miss a grade.